sportster, baterija se ne puni

prvo pa musko... posto pada kisa prosli vikend sam se bio malo vozit i ustanovio sam problem...
znaci, sportster, 2001
pokusao ga upaliti prije dva dana i nece, izmjerim bateriju prazna, napunim je i motor pali iz prve, ponovo mjerim bateriju i "pada" znaci motor je ne puni... stvarno se ne kuzim u te stvari, imam viziju i dijelove kako napravit motor al ove stvari prepustam majstorima, al da pitam vas koji znate i kuzite se, i da baterija je nova, mozda dva mjeseca ima..

regulator napajanja il kako se to zove... zna li tko di se nalazi taj dio i kako provjeriti dal je to to? ima li neki osigurac? bio bi vam jako jako zahvalan...

Treba poceti od reglera. On ti je vjerojatno ispred predneg cilindra prema podu. Onako rebrasti komad zeljeza. Medjutim posto to neznas bolje i ne diraj jer onda neces nista ni naci. Jedino ako imas rezervni regler mozes ga zamjeniti i utvrditi kvar

....isti problem sam imao i ja pred par godina sa svojim Sportsterom... no napravio sam grešku kao i ti napunio sam aku koji jew već bio praktički mrtav i vozio se.... ništa ne sluteć nisam provjeravao stanje akua koji se rapidno praznio, kada sam napokon išao mjeriti punjenje reglera nije ga bilo niti na leru niti pri turaži... u biti sam ja kriv jer sam išao voziti s neispravnim akumulatorom koji je vjerojatno imao jednu od ćelija u šlusu!!
..kako je aku vukao maksimalnu struju iz reglera ovaj je "prdnuo na rosu" usljed pregrijavanja..... nisam imao mira i uz dosta muke sam uspio očistiti silikon oko elektronike u kućištu... riknula je jedna dioda...
..isto tako se je regler doslovno spušio na jednoj Yamahi koju sam imao probnu vožnju za prijatelja... ista stvar dopunjen aku i vožnja..
..novi regler sam nabavio kod Janba za nekih 450-500kn..

..definitivno sam izvukao pouku iz svega, nikako ne voziti motor s neispravnim akuom, kvar reglera gotovo neizbježan.... nažalost savjet ti stiže s zakašnjenjem!

..pogledat ću imam negdje manual pa napravi osnovna mjerenja...

...nisam prevodio i stavljao slike ali nadam se da će biti od koristi...

EDIT
...evo link pa si sve skini..

CHARGING SYSTEM

The charging system consists of the battery, alternator
and a solid state voltage regulator/rectifier.
The alternator generates alternating current (AC) which
the rectifier converts to direct current (DC). The regulator
maintains the voltage to the battery and load (lights, ignition
and accessories) at a constant voltage despite variations
in engine speed and load.
A malfunction in the charging system generally causes
the battery to remain undercharged.

Service Precautions

Before servicing the charging system, observe the following
precautions to prevent damage to any charging system
component:
1. Never reverse battery connections.
2. Do not short across any connection.
3. Never start the engine with the alternator disconnected
from the voltage regulator/rectifier unless instructed to do
so during testing.
4. Never attempt to start or run the engine with the battery
disconnected.
5. Never attempt to use a high-output battery charger to
help start the engine.
6. Before charging the battery, remove it from the motorcycle
as described in Chapter Twelve.
7. Never disconnect the voltage regulator/rectifier connector
with the engine running. The voltage regulator/rectifier
(Figure 21) is mounted on the front frame cross member.
8. Do not mount the voltage regulator/rectifier unit in another
location.
9. Make sure the negative battery terminal is connected to
the terminal on the engine.

Troubleshooting Sequence

If the battery is discharged, perform the following procedures
as listed:
1. Test the battery as described in Chapter Twelve. Charge
the battery if necessary. If the battery will hold a charge
while riding, perform the Charging System Output Test as
described in this section.
2. If the charging system output is within specification, determine
the total amount of current demand by the electrical
system and all accessories as described in Electrical System
Current Load Test in this section.
3. If the charging systemoutput exceeds the current demand
and the battery continues to not hold a charge, perform the
Battery Current Draw Test as described in this section.
4. If the charging system output is not within specification,
test the stator and voltage regulator as described in this section.

Charging System Output Test

This test requires a load tester. When using a load tester,
refer to the manufacturer’s instructions.
1. To perform this test, the battery must be fully charged.
2. Connect the load tester to the battery per the manufacturer’s
instructions (Figure 22).
3. Start the engine and slowly bring the speed up to 3000
rpm while reading the load tester scale. With the engine
running at 3000 rpm, operate the load tester switch until the
voltage scale reads 13.0 volts. The tester should show a regulated
(DC) current output reading of 19-23 amps.
4. With the engine still running at 3000 rpm, turn the load
off and read the load tester voltage scale. Battery voltage
should not exceed 15 volts. Turn the engine off and disconnect
the load tester from the motorcycle.
5. Perform the Stator Test described in this section. If the
stator tests acceptable, a defective voltage regulator/rectifier
or a wiring short circuit is indicated. Eliminate the possibility
of a poor connection or damaged wiring before
replacing the voltage regulator/rectifier.

Electrical System Current Load Test

This test, requiring a load tester, measures the total current
load of the electrical system and any additional accessories
while the engine is running. Perform this test if the
battery is continually discharged, yet the charging system
output is within specifications.
If aftermarket electrical components have been added to
the motorcycle, the increased current demand may exceed
the charging systems capacity and result in a discharged
battery.

1. Connect a load tester to the battery per the manufacturer’s
instructions. When using a load tester, refer to the
manufacturer’s instructions.
2. Turn the ignition switch on but do not start the engine.
Then turn on all electrical accessories and switch the headlight
beam to high.
3. Read the ampere reading (current draw) on the load
tester and compare it to the test results obtained in the
Charging System Output Test in this section. The charging
system output test results (current reading) must exceed the
electrical system current load by 3.5 amps for the battery to
remain sufficiently charged.
4. If the current load is below specified levels and aftermarket
accessories have been added to the motorcycle, disconnect
them and repeat Step 3. If the electrical system current
load is now within the specification, the problem is
with the additional accessories.
5. If no accessories have been added to the motorcycle, a
short circuit may be causing the battery to discharge.

Battery Current Draw Test

Perform this test if the battery will not hold a charge
when the motorcycle is not being used. Acurrent draw that
exceeds 3.0 mAwill discharge the battery. The battery must
be fully charged to perform this test.
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable as described in
Chapter Twelve.
2. Connect an ammeter between the negative battery cable
end and the ground stud on the engine crankcase as shown
in Figure 23.
3. With the ignition switch, lights and all accessories
turned off, read the ammeter. If the current drain exceeds
3.0 mA, continue with Step 4.
4. Refer to the appropriate wiring diagram at the end of this
manual. Check the charging system wires and connectors
for shorts or other damage.
5. Unplug each electrical connector separately and check
for a reduction in the current draw. If the meter reading
changes after a connector is disconnected, the source of the
current draw has been found. Check the electrical connectors
carefully before testing the individual component.
6. After completing the test, disconnect the ammeter and
reconnect the negative battery cable.

Stator Test

1. With the ignition turned off, disconnect the regulator/
rectifier connector that is located below the rear of the
primary case (Figure 24) on 1986-1990 models or at the
front of the crankcase (Figure 25) on 1991-2003 models.
2. Connect an ohmmeter between either stator connector
terminal and ground (Figure 26). The ohmmeter should
read infinity (no continuity). If the reading is incorrect, the
stator is grounded and must be replaced. Repeat this test for
the other stator connector terminal.
3. Connect an ohmmeter between both stator connector
terminals. The ohmmeter should read 0.2-0.4 ohms. If the
resistance is higher than specified, replace the stator.
4. Check stator AC output as follows:
a. Connect an AC voltmeter between the stator connector
terminals as shown in Figure 27.
b. Start the engine and slowly increase idle speed. On
1986-1990 models, the voltage should read 12-18
volts per each 1000 rpm. On 1991-1994 models, the
voltage should read 19-26 volts per each 1000 rpm.
On 1995-2003 models, voltage should read 38-52
volts at 2000 rpm.

c. If the AC voltage output reading is below the prescribed
range, the trouble is probably a faulty stator
(Figure 28, typical) or rotor. If these parts are not
damaged, perform the Charging System Output Test
in this section.

NOTE
On 1991-2003 models, if the stator AC output
test indicate a faulty stator, check the stator
wires where they are held in place by the flat
metal clamp plate shown in Figure 29. The
clamp plate may have rubbed through the
wire’s insulation.

5. Reconnect the regulator/rectifier connector.

Voltage Regulator Ground Test

1. Switch an ohmmeter to the appropriate scale.
2. Connect one ohmmeter lead to a good engine or frame
ground and the other ohmmeter lead to the regulator base.
Read the ohmmeter scale. The correct reading is 0 ohm.
Note the following:
a. If there is low resistance (0 ohm), the voltage regulator
is properly grounded.
b. If there is high resistance, remove the voltage regulator
and clean its frame mounting points.
3. Check the voltage regulator connector (1986-1990
models: Figure 24 or 1991-2003 models: Figure 25) and
make sure it is clean and tightly connected.

Voltage Regulator Bleed Test

1. Disconnect the voltage regulator connector (1986-1990
models: Figure 24 or 1991-2003 models: Figure 25). Do
not disconnect the wire from the voltage regulator to the
circuit breaker.
2. Connect one probe of a 12-volt test lamp to a good
ground.
3. Connect the other test lamp probe to one of the voltage
regulator pins, then to the other pin.
4. If the test lamp lights, replace the voltage regulator.
5. If the test lamp does not light the voltage regulator is
functioning properly. Reconnect the voltage regulator connector.

Ma svaka vam cast ekipa. Hvala vam. Pretpostavljao sam da je taj regler. Ako je to trosak tih 500kn nek mu bude vec sam narucio neke prekidace kod jamba pa tako da cu i to. Al cekam da me mehanicar zove da pocnemo slagat motor. Jos jednom hvala. I da. Nisam se vozio puno s neispravnim reglerom. 2 kilometra i odmah u garazu. Vise ga necu ni palit ni vozit dok ne bude sve kako treba. Valjda ce ostat na tom kvaru

Evo mene opet. Dakle isao malo gledat taj regler. I ucinilo mi se kao da nije dobro spojen jedan konektor il kako se vec zove. Odspojim pogledam i pospricam s nekim sprejom za elektroniku (neki kao cistac spojeva) spojim konektor. Provjerim snagu baterije (bila je na punjenju dva dana prije) 12,56 ako se ne varam. Dam kontakt i mjerim odmah i baterija pada lagano jer svjetla rade cim dam kontakt. Upalim motor baterija je ostala na istoj snazi prije paljenja 12,47. Kako radi motor snaga baterije se povecava, motor radi pod čokom normalno. I dok je radio snaga baterije se povecala do nekih 12,62. E sad? Jel problem bio u tom konektoru? Ponovio sam mjerenje nakon pola sata i opet je punio bateriju. Naravno cijelo vrijeme svjetlo radi. Cak se razmisljem jad budem poceo radit na motoru da stavim neku sklopku koja bi ugasila svjetlo. Koliko je to pametno?

..akumulator koji mjeri 12.47 je gotovo potpuno ispražnjen akumulator!.. napon od 12.75 je napunjen aku a punjenje na leru bi ti trebalo biti barem 13.2V,... no kako je aku prazan full moguće je da stvarno vuče veliku struju i samim time napon pada... znači velika struja mali napom, mala struja veliki napon... probaj napraviti mjerenja prema gore navedenim uputama..
..u svakom slučaju mislim da aku definitivno u q¥®©¥

Ok. Tako cu napravit al tek za vikend. Hvala ti. Ako te put navede u istru, labin javi se za pivo, dva, pet. Hvala.